So I just got the brake drums and brake shoes on my 1998 honda crv changed (in Montreal, Canada). It is a LX model 4wd. What I don't get is how come each brake drum costs $164.71. They changed both drums in the back so the total drum costs was 329.42, plus the costs of the brake shoes, labour, taxes and some other fancy stuff, bringing the total cost to 659.89 cdn. Yes, rear brakes only! Now, I don't know a whole lot about car parts and their costs - but that sounds like alot to me. So car connaisseurs - did I get ripped off (by Honda)?Did i get ripped off?
Dealer prices are higher than those charged by independent shops. The Honda factory parts are more expensive than comparable aftermarket parts.
I can buy the brake drums (retail) for about $43 USD each from an aftermarket parts store. A shop would charge more, but the drums would be about $60 each.
You paid more because you took the car to the dealer.Did i get ripped off?
Regardless of the model car a drum brake is a drum brake. They usually don't need changing unless you damaged them in some way. One way is to drive with worn out brake pads this would dig deep grooves into the otherwise smoother inner surface of the drum. If you damaged the drums to the point where they could not be repaired but had to be replaced you probably paid on average what that job is worth considering the cost of auto repairs. If they replaced good brake drums to hike the price then I would say you were ripped off. If your in doubt about the old drums ask them if they are still around, and look at them yourself the inside should be smooth.Did i get ripped off?
Yes,you got ripped.Go to a local parts store and have them give you a printed price of the items.The shop will use the retail figure,not the parts store price to you,but these drums are around $50 at most.Then take it to a lawyer.Did i get ripped off?
parts for Hondas are expensive. I'd say (without knowing the exchange rate) that $660-canadian is just about right but I don't know what %26quot;other fancy stuff%26quot; is. sometimes %26quot;fancy stuff%26quot; may be necessary for the repair.Did i get ripped off?
Don't blame honda...dealerships aren't owned by corporate (usually). It's really you're fault for taking an old vehicle to the dealership to get work done. Any grease monkey can install brakes in just about any car. But yeah...you got hosed for a drum brake job.Did i get ripped off?
Yes, you did. Here in the states you can buy the drums for $42.99 at autozone. and the shoes for $14.99, Even if you add in a couple hours labor at $75.00 per hour that ends up being less than three hundred dollarsDid i get ripped off?
you should have shopped around for different quotes. The shop usually will add $$$ onto the parts even though they purchase at wholesale. Next time get several quotes. You could have probably saved $200 if you shopped around.Did i get ripped off?
Never get your car worked on at a dealership unless it's still under warranty,it would cost 1/2 that at a repair shop.That is a LOT of $$$ for 2 brake drums.Did i get ripped off?
isnt that like $4 us LOL just kidding...no it sounds like you got hosed.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Drum brake question?
How do i get the drums off when when the little screw holes are rusted out? i believe previous owners never changed the shoes or drums so the drums are pretty rusted, any ideas on how to get it off?Drum brake question?
spray some penetrating oil where the drum meets the axle,clean up the rust on the axle-sand paper/file/wire brush- parking brake off-using two screw drivers,slot near bottom center drum, use one screw driver to release self adjuster pawl,use second screw driver to back off star wheel adjuster retracting brake shoes-drum should come off,might require some careful taps with a hammer to get past rust on axleDrum brake question?
you maight need an impact screwdriver to unfasten screws, or a really good hammer, you can even use a centre punch to tap them round if the slots have worn away,
make sure handbrake cable is slackened and let loose with hammer, dont be afraid to use,it, its standard proceedure !Drum brake question?
Not Sure What Screw Holes You Are Talking About Unless You Mean The Ones In The Drum , But as A Rule They Have To Be Beaten On With A Hammer Until They Start To Pull Off, If You Are Not Sure Take Them To A Shop Or Find A Friend Who Knows How To Do It, They Can Be Easy Or Very-Very Hard To Get OffDrum brake question?
First just bang it from behind W/ a rubber mallet, the br. shoes are whats holding it, make sure the E-Brake is off,if that wont work then try to scrape off the rust around the threaded holes, and pour br fluid over the whole drum around the lug studs then let it soak, start a bolt in into the holes, ID remember what size they are tho.then just tighten one on each side and it should pop right off,, and change and flush all the br. fluid it prob. looks like molasses,,right?Drum brake question?
With rear drum brakes, as a rule, the drums come straight off when the wheels are removed; they should not be separated from the hubs. If the brake shoes have worn down their inner surfaces a little, they will hang up on the shoes. Try releasing hydraulic pressure a little by releasing a bit of fluid with the bleed valves behind the wheels. Then grasp opposite sides of the drums and pull with a rocking motion.Drum brake question?
99% of the time to get a rusty drum off you have to hit it with a hammer. but when you hit it you absolutely MUST NOT hit the fins. these are for heat transfer among other things. you have to hit the little flat area just above these. this will usually knock it loose.
spray some penetrating oil where the drum meets the axle,clean up the rust on the axle-sand paper/file/wire brush- parking brake off-using two screw drivers,slot near bottom center drum, use one screw driver to release self adjuster pawl,use second screw driver to back off star wheel adjuster retracting brake shoes-drum should come off,might require some careful taps with a hammer to get past rust on axleDrum brake question?
you maight need an impact screwdriver to unfasten screws, or a really good hammer, you can even use a centre punch to tap them round if the slots have worn away,
make sure handbrake cable is slackened and let loose with hammer, dont be afraid to use,it, its standard proceedure !Drum brake question?
Not Sure What Screw Holes You Are Talking About Unless You Mean The Ones In The Drum , But as A Rule They Have To Be Beaten On With A Hammer Until They Start To Pull Off, If You Are Not Sure Take Them To A Shop Or Find A Friend Who Knows How To Do It, They Can Be Easy Or Very-Very Hard To Get OffDrum brake question?
First just bang it from behind W/ a rubber mallet, the br. shoes are whats holding it, make sure the E-Brake is off,if that wont work then try to scrape off the rust around the threaded holes, and pour br fluid over the whole drum around the lug studs then let it soak, start a bolt in into the holes, ID remember what size they are tho.then just tighten one on each side and it should pop right off,, and change and flush all the br. fluid it prob. looks like molasses,,right?Drum brake question?
With rear drum brakes, as a rule, the drums come straight off when the wheels are removed; they should not be separated from the hubs. If the brake shoes have worn down their inner surfaces a little, they will hang up on the shoes. Try releasing hydraulic pressure a little by releasing a bit of fluid with the bleed valves behind the wheels. Then grasp opposite sides of the drums and pull with a rocking motion.Drum brake question?
99% of the time to get a rusty drum off you have to hit it with a hammer. but when you hit it you absolutely MUST NOT hit the fins. these are for heat transfer among other things. you have to hit the little flat area just above these. this will usually knock it loose.
How expensive would it be to replace ball joints?
in my 91 park avenue? I was told by a midas machanic that my left tire, that the ball joints are going bad (hence my car sways side to side when driving) but i was curious as to what it would cost me? and is it an easy enough fix where a %26quot;non mechanic%26quot; like my self can fix? ( i've changed my own brakes %26quot;rotors and drum brakes%26quot; aswell as fixed other problems i've had w/ the engine....this is my second car and I'd be more than happy w/ having the mechanical lesson, but it's almost october and it's getting pretty cold in michingan. thanks yaHow expensive would it be to replace ball joints?
Get yourself a book first of all, and see what it looks like to replace them.You should have a book for it anyhow.
I mark where the old ball joints are with a scribe or white out before unbolting them, and put the new ones in the same place, then go get aligned.
Not too expensive for ball joints, probably about $40 a side, but you should really check alignment afterwards.Minor/intermediate job.
Get yourself a book first of all, and see what it looks like to replace them.You should have a book for it anyhow.
I mark where the old ball joints are with a scribe or white out before unbolting them, and put the new ones in the same place, then go get aligned.
Not too expensive for ball joints, probably about $40 a side, but you should really check alignment afterwards.Minor/intermediate job.
How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
There is usually a lip that you can use to pry off the dust cap when you go to change the rear brakes but there isn't one on the Focus. Is there a trick to it?How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
DO NOT attempt to remove the drum by hitting it with a hammer!!! It is not a %26quot;knock off%26quot; style like they are on most other vehicles. The drum on this particular car is one piece with the rear wheel bearing. The dust cap is NOT reusable once removed. You are correct in that there is no way to remove it, without damaging it. For this reason, those dust caps are readily available at any Ford dealer parts departments. On this particular car, there are TWO ways to remove the drum. One is to remove the dust cap you mentioned, and then the 30mm axle nut behind it. Or, you can remove the drum and spindle as an assembly by removing the four 13mm bolts on the BACK side of the backing plate. Doing it this way requires removing the ABS wheel speed sensor (if equipped) either attached to the spindle with the connector disconnected just ahead of the rear wheel, or removing it from the spindle with the one 8mm bolt securing it, if it will come out easily. BTW what is the mileage on this car? It should not be needing brakes on the rear. Rear brake shoes on these particular cars usually have a long lifespan. If you do end up removing it by the first method, just remember that the 30mm axle nut has to be torqued to 174 ft.-lbs. upon reinstallation. Hope this helps.How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
You're Welcome.
try a big channel-lock pliers. grab it and wiggle it back and forth while pulling. you might have a couple marks on the cap when done, but it won't be dented and out of roundHow do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
No removal at all, when you take your tire off, you have to bang like hell to take off the drum. Thats all! Tire, then take off drum. Took me about a 1/2 hour to take one of my drums off my car, the other side just slid off.
DO NOT attempt to remove the drum by hitting it with a hammer!!! It is not a %26quot;knock off%26quot; style like they are on most other vehicles. The drum on this particular car is one piece with the rear wheel bearing. The dust cap is NOT reusable once removed. You are correct in that there is no way to remove it, without damaging it. For this reason, those dust caps are readily available at any Ford dealer parts departments. On this particular car, there are TWO ways to remove the drum. One is to remove the dust cap you mentioned, and then the 30mm axle nut behind it. Or, you can remove the drum and spindle as an assembly by removing the four 13mm bolts on the BACK side of the backing plate. Doing it this way requires removing the ABS wheel speed sensor (if equipped) either attached to the spindle with the connector disconnected just ahead of the rear wheel, or removing it from the spindle with the one 8mm bolt securing it, if it will come out easily. BTW what is the mileage on this car? It should not be needing brakes on the rear. Rear brake shoes on these particular cars usually have a long lifespan. If you do end up removing it by the first method, just remember that the 30mm axle nut has to be torqued to 174 ft.-lbs. upon reinstallation. Hope this helps.How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
You're Welcome.
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How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?try a big channel-lock pliers. grab it and wiggle it back and forth while pulling. you might have a couple marks on the cap when done, but it won't be dented and out of roundHow do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
No removal at all, when you take your tire off, you have to bang like hell to take off the drum. Thats all! Tire, then take off drum. Took me about a 1/2 hour to take one of my drums off my car, the other side just slid off.
Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
am helping my friend out by changing his brakes on his car. I have done alot of front and rear brakes in my life. But for the life of my i cant seem to find how to take the back brake drums off. Is there a special trick to this? I have taken the tire off and the cap in the center of the drum. There is a very large nut under were the cap was. Do i need to remove that to take them off? Or is there some other trick. Any help or info on this would be so greatly apprecaited.Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
your going to have to back the shoes off, there should be a port in back to stick either %26quot;adjustor spoon%26quot; or just a flat tip screwdriver, its a * wheel moving one way will loosen and other way will tighten
drum will slide off and the shoes and springs will be exposed, if possible take both sides off, but only work on one side at a time to so you can see how springs are routed and how it should look not how it looks good.
good luck, drums are alot more difficult than disk brakesTroubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
Make sure the parking brake is released.Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
If you have an Auto Zone store near they have a computer set up that tells all the details. It's freeshort hair cut small myspace
your going to have to back the shoes off, there should be a port in back to stick either %26quot;adjustor spoon%26quot; or just a flat tip screwdriver, its a * wheel moving one way will loosen and other way will tighten
drum will slide off and the shoes and springs will be exposed, if possible take both sides off, but only work on one side at a time to so you can see how springs are routed and how it should look not how it looks good.
good luck, drums are alot more difficult than disk brakesTroubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
Make sure the parking brake is released.Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
If you have an Auto Zone store near they have a computer set up that tells all the details. It's free
SEAT Ibiza back brakes?
Can anyone direct me to a web page that will give me a step by step on how to change the rear brake shoes on a Mk 3 Ibiza.
Dont get me wrong I am competant enough to do them, I would just like a little look at what I can expect when I get the drum off and any tips from experts. Just to prepare myself a bit.
Ta for any postitive helpful repliesSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
Rear Drum Brakes:
Break loose the wheel lugs on both sides, jack up each side and support the vehicle using metal jack stands. Remove the wheels. Most rear drums simply slide on to the hub, although they may have a thin metal push nut on two of the lugs to secure the drum during assembly, if they are found simply break them off using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or a cold chisel, You do not need to replace the push nuts - they simply prevent the drum from falling off during handling during vehicle assembly. Wearing safety glasses to protect yourself from flying pieces of rust, pound liberally around the rim of the drum with a heavy hand sledge (2 or 1 Kg size) rotating the blows, do not hit the same place repeatedly, until the drum breaks loose. IF the drum is not too badly grooved, the drum will slide off with a bit of wiggling, if it refuses to come off you will have to locate the adjuster access hole in the backing plate, usually oval shaped and located at either the bottom center or upper front center of the backing plate, remove the rubber plug and turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes back off and allow the drum to be removed. In extreme cases it may be necessary to force the drum off with extreme brute force using 2 or more Large Pry Bars - if this degree of force is required be prepared to replace absolutely everything in the assembly - Adjuster mechanisms, Hold down pins springs and clips, return springs and last but certainly not least the parking brake cables. If the drums are only mildly grooved, and are similar in appearance on both sides it should not be necessary to have them turned or to replace them, if either side has deep grooves, or if the lip on the outer edge where the shoe does not contact the drum is deeper than 3/16%26quot; (2mm) then the best solution is simply to replace the drums, if new drums are installed make certain to clean the braking surface using Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative. Hopefully at least one side came apart without requiring the brute force method !!! Replace the brake assembly one side at a time closely and carefully comparing the positioning and orientation of each part with it's mate on the other side to ensure correct operation of the completed assembly. If re using the adjuster assembly, thoroughly clean it of rust and coat the threads with Anti-Seize compound and operate the threaded adjustment from end to end several times to ensure smooth operation. Also apply a dab of Anti-Seize to each of the spots where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If you are replacing the adjuster make certain that you install each adjuster on the correct side, one of them will be Left hand or Reverse threaded due to the mirror image operation of the design. When the side is assembled slide the drum over the shoes and check for excessive clearance, if there is more than 1/16%26quot; (1mm) clearance, rotate the adjuster wheel a little at a time until the drum just lightly drags on the shoes as they slide on. Repeat process for opposite side. Install wheels and snug the lugs using a crisscross or star pattern, lower the car to the ground on both sides and tighten the wheels to the proper torque using a torque wrench, again using a crisscross or star tightening pattern which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Test the brakes and verify that you have a firm pedal with the engine running before placing the car in gear! If the pedal is firm put the car in gear and let it roll a few feet and check the brakes again, if they feel normal continue with a test drive trying out the brakes at varied speeds, they should be smooth and free from any pulling from side to side.SEAT Ibiza back brakes?
the main thing alot forget is u need a grinder...on removing the drums,check the inner braking surface,there will be a lip of unworn metal that needs ground off..this aids quick and proper fitment of the drum.also adjust up the shoes by hand[dont let the ''automatic'' adjusters work as most of the time they dont]...so there just dragging the drum when its on..if when back together,you Spin the wheel,and it turns freely,without slowing down quick then you've done it wrong!...shoes must be just touching the drum,if there not there will be lots of movement on the foot brake...hope this helps a LittleSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
well you can always google it, normally brings up what your looking for, I would invest in a haynes manual for your car , i buy one for evry car i get and they cover evrything
Dont get me wrong I am competant enough to do them, I would just like a little look at what I can expect when I get the drum off and any tips from experts. Just to prepare myself a bit.
Ta for any postitive helpful repliesSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
Rear Drum Brakes:
Break loose the wheel lugs on both sides, jack up each side and support the vehicle using metal jack stands. Remove the wheels. Most rear drums simply slide on to the hub, although they may have a thin metal push nut on two of the lugs to secure the drum during assembly, if they are found simply break them off using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or a cold chisel, You do not need to replace the push nuts - they simply prevent the drum from falling off during handling during vehicle assembly. Wearing safety glasses to protect yourself from flying pieces of rust, pound liberally around the rim of the drum with a heavy hand sledge (2 or 1 Kg size) rotating the blows, do not hit the same place repeatedly, until the drum breaks loose. IF the drum is not too badly grooved, the drum will slide off with a bit of wiggling, if it refuses to come off you will have to locate the adjuster access hole in the backing plate, usually oval shaped and located at either the bottom center or upper front center of the backing plate, remove the rubber plug and turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes back off and allow the drum to be removed. In extreme cases it may be necessary to force the drum off with extreme brute force using 2 or more Large Pry Bars - if this degree of force is required be prepared to replace absolutely everything in the assembly - Adjuster mechanisms, Hold down pins springs and clips, return springs and last but certainly not least the parking brake cables. If the drums are only mildly grooved, and are similar in appearance on both sides it should not be necessary to have them turned or to replace them, if either side has deep grooves, or if the lip on the outer edge where the shoe does not contact the drum is deeper than 3/16%26quot; (2mm) then the best solution is simply to replace the drums, if new drums are installed make certain to clean the braking surface using Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative. Hopefully at least one side came apart without requiring the brute force method !!! Replace the brake assembly one side at a time closely and carefully comparing the positioning and orientation of each part with it's mate on the other side to ensure correct operation of the completed assembly. If re using the adjuster assembly, thoroughly clean it of rust and coat the threads with Anti-Seize compound and operate the threaded adjustment from end to end several times to ensure smooth operation. Also apply a dab of Anti-Seize to each of the spots where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If you are replacing the adjuster make certain that you install each adjuster on the correct side, one of them will be Left hand or Reverse threaded due to the mirror image operation of the design. When the side is assembled slide the drum over the shoes and check for excessive clearance, if there is more than 1/16%26quot; (1mm) clearance, rotate the adjuster wheel a little at a time until the drum just lightly drags on the shoes as they slide on. Repeat process for opposite side. Install wheels and snug the lugs using a crisscross or star pattern, lower the car to the ground on both sides and tighten the wheels to the proper torque using a torque wrench, again using a crisscross or star tightening pattern which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Test the brakes and verify that you have a firm pedal with the engine running before placing the car in gear! If the pedal is firm put the car in gear and let it roll a few feet and check the brakes again, if they feel normal continue with a test drive trying out the brakes at varied speeds, they should be smooth and free from any pulling from side to side.SEAT Ibiza back brakes?
the main thing alot forget is u need a grinder...on removing the drums,check the inner braking surface,there will be a lip of unworn metal that needs ground off..this aids quick and proper fitment of the drum.also adjust up the shoes by hand[dont let the ''automatic'' adjusters work as most of the time they dont]...so there just dragging the drum when its on..if when back together,you Spin the wheel,and it turns freely,without slowing down quick then you've done it wrong!...shoes must be just touching the drum,if there not there will be lots of movement on the foot brake...hope this helps a LittleSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
well you can always google it, normally brings up what your looking for, I would invest in a haynes manual for your car , i buy one for evry car i get and they cover evrything
What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
I'm a mildly competent do it yourself kind of guy and I don't mind learning how to maintain my own cars. I've successfully changed belts, brakes (disc and drum) plugs, filters, distributer caps and wires, etc. I've had varying success between my 2003 Dodge Intrepid and my wife's 1996 Infiniti G20 and 2003 Ford Taurus and it's clearly evident that come cars are FAR easier to work on than others.
Are there any cars out there that are %26quot;known%26quot; to be easy to work on? Not for accessorizing, or %26quot;souping%26quot; up, just for basic maintenance without having to go to the shop because the belts are unreachable without a lift!What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
You want easy to work on look for something before the mid 80's when computerized things starting showing up.
The newer they are the more electronics they have.What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
None...What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
1st dont buy an audi they are nice cars howver they can only be worked on in the shop and cost upwards of 2000 a year. i would reccomend a ford mustang very easy and fun to work on, and parts are EXTREMLY cheap and easy to find hope this helpsWhat kind of cars are easy to take care of?
As a general rule, Hondas are usually easier and cheaper to work on.
Are there any cars out there that are %26quot;known%26quot; to be easy to work on? Not for accessorizing, or %26quot;souping%26quot; up, just for basic maintenance without having to go to the shop because the belts are unreachable without a lift!What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
You want easy to work on look for something before the mid 80's when computerized things starting showing up.
The newer they are the more electronics they have.What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
None...What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
1st dont buy an audi they are nice cars howver they can only be worked on in the shop and cost upwards of 2000 a year. i would reccomend a ford mustang very easy and fun to work on, and parts are EXTREMLY cheap and easy to find hope this helpsWhat kind of cars are easy to take care of?
As a general rule, Hondas are usually easier and cheaper to work on.
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