Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?

am helping my friend out by changing his brakes on his car. I have done alot of front and rear brakes in my life. But for the life of my i cant seem to find how to take the back brake drums off. Is there a special trick to this? I have taken the tire off and the cap in the center of the drum. There is a very large nut under were the cap was. Do i need to remove that to take them off? Or is there some other trick. Any help or info on this would be so greatly apprecaited.Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
your going to have to back the shoes off, there should be a port in back to stick either %26quot;adjustor spoon%26quot; or just a flat tip screwdriver, its a * wheel moving one way will loosen and other way will tighten



drum will slide off and the shoes and springs will be exposed, if possible take both sides off, but only work on one side at a time to so you can see how springs are routed and how it should look not how it looks good.



good luck, drums are alot more difficult than disk brakesTroubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
Make sure the parking brake is released.Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
If you have an Auto Zone store near they have a computer set up that tells all the details. It's free

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SEAT Ibiza back brakes?

Can anyone direct me to a web page that will give me a step by step on how to change the rear brake shoes on a Mk 3 Ibiza.

Dont get me wrong I am competant enough to do them, I would just like a little look at what I can expect when I get the drum off and any tips from experts. Just to prepare myself a bit.

Ta for any postitive helpful repliesSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
Rear Drum Brakes:

Break loose the wheel lugs on both sides, jack up each side and support the vehicle using metal jack stands. Remove the wheels. Most rear drums simply slide on to the hub, although they may have a thin metal push nut on two of the lugs to secure the drum during assembly, if they are found simply break them off using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or a cold chisel, You do not need to replace the push nuts - they simply prevent the drum from falling off during handling during vehicle assembly. Wearing safety glasses to protect yourself from flying pieces of rust, pound liberally around the rim of the drum with a heavy hand sledge (2 or 1 Kg size) rotating the blows, do not hit the same place repeatedly, until the drum breaks loose. IF the drum is not too badly grooved, the drum will slide off with a bit of wiggling, if it refuses to come off you will have to locate the adjuster access hole in the backing plate, usually oval shaped and located at either the bottom center or upper front center of the backing plate, remove the rubber plug and turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes back off and allow the drum to be removed. In extreme cases it may be necessary to force the drum off with extreme brute force using 2 or more Large Pry Bars - if this degree of force is required be prepared to replace absolutely everything in the assembly - Adjuster mechanisms, Hold down pins springs and clips, return springs and last but certainly not least the parking brake cables. If the drums are only mildly grooved, and are similar in appearance on both sides it should not be necessary to have them turned or to replace them, if either side has deep grooves, or if the lip on the outer edge where the shoe does not contact the drum is deeper than 3/16%26quot; (2mm) then the best solution is simply to replace the drums, if new drums are installed make certain to clean the braking surface using Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative. Hopefully at least one side came apart without requiring the brute force method !!! Replace the brake assembly one side at a time closely and carefully comparing the positioning and orientation of each part with it's mate on the other side to ensure correct operation of the completed assembly. If re using the adjuster assembly, thoroughly clean it of rust and coat the threads with Anti-Seize compound and operate the threaded adjustment from end to end several times to ensure smooth operation. Also apply a dab of Anti-Seize to each of the spots where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If you are replacing the adjuster make certain that you install each adjuster on the correct side, one of them will be Left hand or Reverse threaded due to the mirror image operation of the design. When the side is assembled slide the drum over the shoes and check for excessive clearance, if there is more than 1/16%26quot; (1mm) clearance, rotate the adjuster wheel a little at a time until the drum just lightly drags on the shoes as they slide on. Repeat process for opposite side. Install wheels and snug the lugs using a crisscross or star pattern, lower the car to the ground on both sides and tighten the wheels to the proper torque using a torque wrench, again using a crisscross or star tightening pattern which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Test the brakes and verify that you have a firm pedal with the engine running before placing the car in gear! If the pedal is firm put the car in gear and let it roll a few feet and check the brakes again, if they feel normal continue with a test drive trying out the brakes at varied speeds, they should be smooth and free from any pulling from side to side.SEAT Ibiza back brakes?
the main thing alot forget is u need a grinder...on removing the drums,check the inner braking surface,there will be a lip of unworn metal that needs ground off..this aids quick and proper fitment of the drum.also adjust up the shoes by hand[dont let the ''automatic'' adjusters work as most of the time they dont]...so there just dragging the drum when its on..if when back together,you Spin the wheel,and it turns freely,without slowing down quick then you've done it wrong!...shoes must be just touching the drum,if there not there will be lots of movement on the foot brake...hope this helps a LittleSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
well you can always google it, normally brings up what your looking for, I would invest in a haynes manual for your car , i buy one for evry car i get and they cover evrything

What kind of cars are easy to take care of?

I'm a mildly competent do it yourself kind of guy and I don't mind learning how to maintain my own cars. I've successfully changed belts, brakes (disc and drum) plugs, filters, distributer caps and wires, etc. I've had varying success between my 2003 Dodge Intrepid and my wife's 1996 Infiniti G20 and 2003 Ford Taurus and it's clearly evident that come cars are FAR easier to work on than others.



Are there any cars out there that are %26quot;known%26quot; to be easy to work on? Not for accessorizing, or %26quot;souping%26quot; up, just for basic maintenance without having to go to the shop because the belts are unreachable without a lift!What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
You want easy to work on look for something before the mid 80's when computerized things starting showing up.



The newer they are the more electronics they have.What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
None...What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
1st dont buy an audi they are nice cars howver they can only be worked on in the shop and cost upwards of 2000 a year. i would reccomend a ford mustang very easy and fun to work on, and parts are EXTREMLY cheap and easy to find hope this helpsWhat kind of cars are easy to take care of?
As a general rule, Hondas are usually easier and cheaper to work on.

Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?

I am helping my friend out by changing his brakes on his car. I have done alot of front and rear brakes in my life. But for the life of my i cant seem to find how to take the back brake drums off. Is there a special trick to this? I have taken the tire off and the cap in the center of the drum. There is a very large nut under were the cap was. Do i need to remove that to take them off? Or is there some other trick. Any help or info on this would be so greatly apprecaited.Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum pullerBrake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some

How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?

I have a honda civic 05ex coupe and I want to convert 4 lugs pattern to 5 lugs pattern. I don't know what parts should i get to do it, and I also want to change the front rotor brakes and rear brake ( my rear brakes are drum and I want to convert it into brake rotor). Can you guys help me out with this?

thankzHow to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
1 get a wheelbarrow full of money! 2 If you are lucky you might find a Honda with 5 lug wheels, - you then might be able to pull hubs off and change out with stock parts! Or you might be able to buy adapters at auto parts store (or custom wheel shop)! This will cost you plenty! For non drive wheels you can change hubs, -- but you need to find one at junkyard (preferably) that has disc brakes on back and buy all the stuff needed to remove drum brakes and backing plates and install lines that go with disc brakes! Then you have problem of parking brake, which has to have all the conversion stuff to to work!



When you get finished with that, all you have to do is get master cylinder for disc brakes, (for all 4 wheels), change anti skid brake parts (if so equipped) and possibly %26quot;shuttle valve that shuts off fluid flow should one %26quot;end %26quot; of car have brake leak, and then I guess you are ready to go!



Possibly you can buy conversion kit for disc brakes at a%26quot;speed shop/custom car supply%26quot; place for somewhere around $900-1000! They also might have adapters to bolt on. but this will make your wheels sit out about 1 1/2%26quot; probably - so you might need %26quot;deep dish%26quot; wheels to go that way!



To me it would be unwarranted expense, as only about 1/3 of braking goes to rear wheels! And if you are going to %26quot;play competition%26quot; you will probably tear car up and ruin it in short order anyway!



But then what do I know!! I have only been fixing cars since I was 9,---which is almost 60 years ago!How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
The lugs are part of the %26quot;brake-rotor%26quot;How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
The lugs are mounted in the hub assembly of each wheel, the key is finding 5 lug hubs which have the same size bearing mounting shaft as the 4 lug hubs which you have. once you locate a set of the proper hubs you will have to obtain rotors to match, Brake caliper mounts to match the rotors (front and rear) which may require replacement of the knuckles in the front and will certainly require modifications to the rear spindle supports to mount the rear calipers. This is not going to be a simple swap a few pieces operation - your best bet will be to find a disk brake equipped rear %26quot;axle%26quot; assembly from a similar car so you have all the pieces in one assembly then find a really good welder who you can persuade ($$$) to perform non dot approved modifications to your machine. If you are reasonable lucky on the parts locating side of this you might get it accomplished for less than 2 or 3 thousand dollars. How to convert 4 lugs to 5lugs on honda civic ex 05 coupe?
WHY would you want to do this? It would be very expensive for no benefit whatsoever.

My brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?

The reason I looked at my brake fluid was because my brakes were a bit spongy (the pedal went all the way to the floor) the other day (they're fine now, even before I added a little brake fluid). But, when I went to add a little bit of brake fluid to bring the level to the 'maximum level' line I noticed how brown the existing brake fluid was. The new brake fluid was crystal clear. Do I need to change the brake fluid? How often is it suggested to replace the brake fluid?



Also, it was pretty hot the day my brakes went spongy. Could it be due to the brake fluid overheating and not working effectively? I have a 89' Honda Civic HB with non-power disc brakes in the front and drums in the back.My brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
Yes, the brake fluid can need changing just like all of the fluids in your car. If the brakes were spongy you might want to check the master cylinder. If the pads are more than half worn go ahead and do a brake job changing the fluid.My brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
you can at any time flush your brake system. this can be done with rented items from advanced auto.. or auto zone..



or from somebody like Midas or Meineke.



as far as the %26quot;spnoge%26quot; brakes that is not the fluid.. I would look more toward the master cylinder...or power booster..



you could go to one of those shops above if I remember right they give free est...



which would tell you what is wrong with the car then you can decide if you can do the work or not.. if not you know what it will cost youMy brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
If you steped on the brake pedal and they were spongey, then were ok the next time you steped on the pedal, is a sign, your brake cylender is going bad. no idea, when it will let go totally, but when the cylender is changed, all four brakes will need to be bled off. sinse fresh brake fluid must be used, after all is said and done, all will have fresh clean brake luid once againMy brake fluid seems really dirty (dark brown). Does it need changing periodically?
The brake fluid is probably okay. sounds as if you need to have someone help you bleed the break lines; usually when the break pedal feels mushy it is a indication of air in the break lines

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How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?

I have a Honda Civic 04 DX with Discs in the front and drums in the back. I have changed the brake pads at 60K but I want more info on RotorsHow do i know when i have to replace my rotors?
The minimum machining limits on most Japanese vehicles (at least here in Japan) is inside the rotor itself. It must be removed in order to see it. It generally will say %26quot;Min 19mm%26quot;, or something similiar.

For some reason, people think you must machine or %26quot;turn%26quot; the rotors every brake change, which is untrue. Most rotors can only handle 2-3 turnings (depending on how much material is removed), while some specify no machining at all...simply replace. They should not need it unless they have been grooved, warped, or have some condition that makes if necessary.

Vibrations while braking (usually in the brake pedal itself) can indicate rotors that are out of round, a faulty caliper, or incorrectly adjusted rear drum brake(s). (YES..loose shoes that refuse to self-adjust can give similiar symptoms)

Measurements must be made with a micrometer in several places going towards the center of the rotor if possible. (Go with the smallest reading if it varies). Never with a set of calipers, which can only measure the widest point at the outer edge. (Not accurate, as the edges can flare slightly, and rust can throw off the reading). A wrench is ok in a pinch, like looking thru a junkyard for a decent replacement (if you go that route), but keep in mind, a 19 mm wrench measures slightly over 19 mm.. (.4mm or .015 in. wider) otherwise, to get it over a 19 mm nut, it would be a press fit.

Factory replacements can run a couple hundred dollars, but I'm sure you can find a quality replacement for much cheaper. I'm not familiar with your particular model, but generally Hondas only require tire removal, then brake caliper, and finally the two machine screws which hold the rotor snugly to the spindle to replace the rotor. (Most common with smaller bodied Hondas)

Some require a puller to remove the rotor from the hub bearing (much more expensive)..but, more common with larger models (Legends and Inspires etc..)



Hope this helps...How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?
You should always change them if there are any deep grooves in them. Otherwise, use a micrometer to determine their thickness and compare it to factory specs.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?
take one into the nearest autoparts store and have them measure is the best way. Also there is a chamfer on the egde of a rotor look for it, if you do not see the chamfer you are getting really close and definately should have them measured.How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?
well when you changed your pads you were supposed to get them machined. they will tell you what kind of condition they are in. if you did get them resurfaced and they shake and feel different you probley will need some new ones. they are not very expensive and easy to changeHow do i know when i have to replace my rotors?
You can sometimes tell when you're braking, you'll feel and hear a light thudding sound every 1-2 seconds, which indicates uneven groove and wear. They can also be too thin, but you'll need a micrometer to check for this (standard width is 19mm, I believe).



Typically, a shop will re-groove them to smooth them out, but this can only be done 1-2 times, then you have to change the rotors.



A garage will give you an inspection for a small fee ($20-50) or an auto parts store will eyeball and measure them for you if you remove the tire. Cost for new pair is $150-250, depending on where you live. To replace will cost you about the same. Good luck!How do i know when i have to replace my rotors?
The minimum service limit for those rotors is 19mm. If there is no ridge on the outside of the rotor (you should have had them machined when you replaced your pads, so there should be no ridge). Try to fit a 19mm or 3/4 inch (the standard equivalent) open end wrench over the edge of the rotor. If it fits, your rotors are too thin and need to be replaced. You do not need to replace them to get rid of a brake pulse if there is still enough material to have them machined.