I'm wondering this, because, guess what? Summer's here. I'd like something to do over the summer that will earn me money, instead of costing money. I'm going to be 16 at the end of summer (Sept. 2nd). Honestly, right now, a job is a job. I'd be lucky just to get any job at all. But I want to know if I could get this type of job, because it would be more money, it would probably be more fun, and i already know well enough what I'm doing ( well, enough for a simple job, like the kind at Big-O, or Jiffy-Lube, etc.). I know how to do the simple things.
-change oil (duh).
-rotate tires.
-mount and dismount a tire.
-patch a tire (unfortunately not plug...)
-I have done drum brakes, but not too fond of them.
-disk brakes. those are so friggen easy, I think most mechanics could do them with their hands behind their backs ( slight exaggeration).
-I have changed a McPherson strut, but only once.
I'm sure there's more, but the point is, simple things along those lines. Is it legal for a 15 year old to get a job in this field, or should I just wait till I'm 16? I know that 15 (or even 14) year ODs can do most simple jobs, but not ones considered to be %26quot;hazardous%26quot;. Is this one considered to be %26quot;hazardous%26quot;? I don't see why it would be, if all of the safety rules are followed (as with everything, safety rules were the first thing I was taught).Can a 15 year old work as a mechanic, or is there an older %26quot;legal%26quot; age?
I doubt that you could qualify as a mechanic no matter how much experience you have. It depends on the state you live in, but most won't let you work in that type of environment. One way to find out is to call a lube place or some other place where you think you might want to work and ask them. You could also stop in and ask, but you might feel more comfortable calling and you can save yourself the trip.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
I changed the rear shoes, hubs, springs and all the little stuff on my wife's 1990 Nissan Stanza, I got the driver side drum on, but now cant get the passenger side on.....how the heck do i get it back on and is it supposed to take a hammer to knock it back on?Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
Is the brake adjuster spun all the way back in at the very bottom of the replacement shoes? There should be no free space between the tooth adjuster wheel and the body of the adjuster that slips over the base of the shoes .
Try switching brake shoes side to side.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
Several possibilities.
First of all, did you totally release the adjustor?
Some cars have a star wheel on a threaded shaft; other have wedges, etc.
Second is that could the parking brake be hanging up?
That should be totally loose.
Third is that the wheel cylinder could be sticking?
Make sure the piston turns easily and is not binding from rust.
Also make sure you did not turn the piston slot upside down, as they often are not flat, but slanted.
Also make sure the shoes are centered.
They can move up and down considerably.
You can have the ridge machined off the drum, but you should not have to.
It should fit because replacements should be no larger than the originals.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
Noooo hammer! ... When you brake, the shoes wear down. But the drums wear down as well over time.
If these are the original drums there will be a ridge inside the drum on the leading edge. This is what stops the drum going back on.
The best way to remove this is in a lathe but failing that you can carefully use a grindstone in your drill
to remove most of it and the drum will just push on.
One point There is a maximum diameter for the drum which should not be exceeded. Usually if you wire brush them you will find the size stamped on it somewhere. Check this also as you may need new drums. Here in UK replacement drums are about 拢25 a pair roughly $40
Also check your handbrake adjuster.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
no no no hammers,usually the self adjusters are all the way out by the time you put on new shoes, you need to set them back, and them adjust them out to specifications which should be in the repair manual.
drum brakes must be adjusted correctly, or else in a panic stop situation the car can lock one or more wheels and or pull to one side or the other, if you did not get a repair manual yet, go get one. it would have all the Information you need in itAre the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
did you run the adjuster all the way in? also there is a ridge on the inside edge of the drum sometimes will make it hard to get on. take the drums and have them turned down to get the edge off. don,t hammer them on or they will get stuck and the wheel won,t turn. do like i said and they will fit. try adjusting the adjuster in all the way.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
No! There should be an adjusting screw spindle. I looks like a cowboys spur on the end of a tube. Pull the hold down tang away from the star wheel and turn the star wheel to bring the shoes closer together. Once it's on you make your preliminary adjust through the hole in the back(maybe the front) using a flat screwdriver or a brake spoon.
Good luck.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
did you install them properly. the drum should slide right over. is the parking brake on. remember,brakes,when engaged, press out onto the inside of the drum. your parking brake %26quot;tighten's%26quot; the rear system.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
adjust it in some bump shoes with hand
should be little tight but not that you have to hit it
turn adjuster make it shorter
Is the brake adjuster spun all the way back in at the very bottom of the replacement shoes? There should be no free space between the tooth adjuster wheel and the body of the adjuster that slips over the base of the shoes .
Try switching brake shoes side to side.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
Several possibilities.
First of all, did you totally release the adjustor?
Some cars have a star wheel on a threaded shaft; other have wedges, etc.
Second is that could the parking brake be hanging up?
That should be totally loose.
Third is that the wheel cylinder could be sticking?
Make sure the piston turns easily and is not binding from rust.
Also make sure you did not turn the piston slot upside down, as they often are not flat, but slanted.
Also make sure the shoes are centered.
They can move up and down considerably.
You can have the ridge machined off the drum, but you should not have to.
It should fit because replacements should be no larger than the originals.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
Noooo hammer! ... When you brake, the shoes wear down. But the drums wear down as well over time.
If these are the original drums there will be a ridge inside the drum on the leading edge. This is what stops the drum going back on.
The best way to remove this is in a lathe but failing that you can carefully use a grindstone in your drill
to remove most of it and the drum will just push on.
One point There is a maximum diameter for the drum which should not be exceeded. Usually if you wire brush them you will find the size stamped on it somewhere. Check this also as you may need new drums. Here in UK replacement drums are about 拢25 a pair roughly $40
Also check your handbrake adjuster.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
no no no hammers,usually the self adjusters are all the way out by the time you put on new shoes, you need to set them back, and them adjust them out to specifications which should be in the repair manual.
drum brakes must be adjusted correctly, or else in a panic stop situation the car can lock one or more wheels and or pull to one side or the other, if you did not get a repair manual yet, go get one. it would have all the Information you need in itAre the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
did you run the adjuster all the way in? also there is a ridge on the inside edge of the drum sometimes will make it hard to get on. take the drums and have them turned down to get the edge off. don,t hammer them on or they will get stuck and the wheel won,t turn. do like i said and they will fit. try adjusting the adjuster in all the way.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
No! There should be an adjusting screw spindle. I looks like a cowboys spur on the end of a tube. Pull the hold down tang away from the star wheel and turn the star wheel to bring the shoes closer together. Once it's on you make your preliminary adjust through the hole in the back(maybe the front) using a flat screwdriver or a brake spoon.
Good luck.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
did you install them properly. the drum should slide right over. is the parking brake on. remember,brakes,when engaged, press out onto the inside of the drum. your parking brake %26quot;tighten's%26quot; the rear system.Are the rear Brake drums supposed to be extremely hard to get on?
adjust it in some bump shoes with hand
should be little tight but not that you have to hit it
turn adjuster make it shorter
How to fix a 1990 Ford EA Falcon Handbrake?
Ok, my handbrake started to slip a few months ago, as in it didnt grip when i put the handbrake on. I could push the car while the handbrake was on. So we tightened the handbrake from the bolt under the driver seat. after a few weeks the problem happened again, and we tightened it agen, etc etc, it happened agen, etc etc same thing every couple of weeks.
So we change the read DISC brake pads, but i read that the handbrake might be operated by a drum brake on the inner side of the disc?? anyone know if that a fact for EA's or is it a diff model that uses that?
Now that there new pads, i think its tighter, but still, i can push the car with the handbrake is on.
I read on a site there's another way to adjust it, but it didnt say how. I can't find any useful forum posts, so can someone direct me to one or explain how to fix it ??
please help???How to fix a 1990 Ford EA Falcon Handbrake?
From the EA Falcon workshop manual:
The handbrake is operated by a pull-type mechanism located to the left of the steering column. Cables connect the mechanism to the rear brake calipers. The cables operate screws in the rear calipers which force the pistons out and clamp the brake pads onto the brake discs.
TO ADJUST HANDBRAKE
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on chassis stands placed under the rear axle housing. The placement of the stands is important, as the adjustment must be done with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels or axles.
(2) Release the adjusting nut on the equaliser rod so that both the caliper levers are in the fully off position.
(3) Start the engine and apply the footbrake 20 times with a minimum pressure of 500N. Stop the engine.
(4) Tighten the adjusting nut on the equaliser rod until the distances from the handbrake lever tang to the caliper body stop on the left and right hand calipers add up to 6mm.
(5) Tighten the locknuts on the equaliser rod adjustment.
(6) With the handbrake released ensure that both rear wheels are free to rotate.
http://s960.photobucket.com/albums/ae89/
http://s960.photobucket.com/albums/ae89/
EDIT:
Heh, about the other question you asked... Okay, granted you can't drive the car to a mechanic, but there are still mobile mechanics available. But I understand what you mean, sometimes it CAN seem lazy to just answer a question with %26quot;Just take it to a mechanic!%26quot;.How to fix a 1990 Ford EA Falcon Handbrake?
Most cars that have rear disc brakes use a drum brake inside the back of the rotor. Where does the hand brake cable go? If it goes to the caliper, the only thing I can suggest is apply the brakes with your foot and then while holding the pedal down, set the hand brake. If it doesn't go to the rotor, it is and adjusts like a regular drum brake.
So we change the read DISC brake pads, but i read that the handbrake might be operated by a drum brake on the inner side of the disc?? anyone know if that a fact for EA's or is it a diff model that uses that?
Now that there new pads, i think its tighter, but still, i can push the car with the handbrake is on.
I read on a site there's another way to adjust it, but it didnt say how. I can't find any useful forum posts, so can someone direct me to one or explain how to fix it ??
please help???How to fix a 1990 Ford EA Falcon Handbrake?
From the EA Falcon workshop manual:
The handbrake is operated by a pull-type mechanism located to the left of the steering column. Cables connect the mechanism to the rear brake calipers. The cables operate screws in the rear calipers which force the pistons out and clamp the brake pads onto the brake discs.
TO ADJUST HANDBRAKE
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on chassis stands placed under the rear axle housing. The placement of the stands is important, as the adjustment must be done with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels or axles.
(2) Release the adjusting nut on the equaliser rod so that both the caliper levers are in the fully off position.
(3) Start the engine and apply the footbrake 20 times with a minimum pressure of 500N. Stop the engine.
(4) Tighten the adjusting nut on the equaliser rod until the distances from the handbrake lever tang to the caliper body stop on the left and right hand calipers add up to 6mm.
(5) Tighten the locknuts on the equaliser rod adjustment.
(6) With the handbrake released ensure that both rear wheels are free to rotate.
http://s960.photobucket.com/albums/ae89/
http://s960.photobucket.com/albums/ae89/
EDIT:
Heh, about the other question you asked... Okay, granted you can't drive the car to a mechanic, but there are still mobile mechanics available. But I understand what you mean, sometimes it CAN seem lazy to just answer a question with %26quot;Just take it to a mechanic!%26quot;.How to fix a 1990 Ford EA Falcon Handbrake?
Most cars that have rear disc brakes use a drum brake inside the back of the rotor. Where does the hand brake cable go? If it goes to the caliper, the only thing I can suggest is apply the brakes with your foot and then while holding the pedal down, set the hand brake. If it doesn't go to the rotor, it is and adjusts like a regular drum brake.
A Co-Worker at Work has a Stuck Parking-Brake.. How does he Fix it?!?
He has a 1998 Dodge Caravan. Disc-Brakes in Front, Drums in Rear.
He Never uses his Parking-Brake.
Now, he Used it once, and it's STUCK!
He Drove home, and couldn't drive over 45 MPH.
He has Drum-Brakes in the Back, and those are the Brakes that are Stuck!! (Parking-Brakes are the Back Brakes)
I know it's nothing in the Front, because the Front-Wheels are Easy to Spin. The Back ones are Hard, and make a Creaking noise when moved.
Is this a Simple Fix, by Removing the Tire/Wheel and Drum-Cover?!?
Is it just a simple Rusted-part that needs Oiled %26amp; Greased, to Move?!?
I have 4-Wheel Discs on my Own Car, so I've never had this Happen to me Personally.
I pull My E-Brake every time I change my Motor Oil.
This guy NEVER uses his!
Let me Know what needs done. I mean, it's Got to be Simple to take Care of. I Replace Disc-Brakes for people on the Side. Drums are abit unknown to me.A Co-Worker at Work has a Stuck Parking-Brake.. How does he Fix it?!?
The cable that operates the drum parking brakes might be stuck somewhere( check if it moves freely under the car, by pulling on it, also check the inside through where tha brake cable goes)
Also check the cable and mechanism for the releasing of the parking brake
Good Luck
Let me know if this workedA Co-Worker at Work has a Stuck Parking-Brake.. How does he Fix it?!?
Lack of use causes them to seize. He will need wd-40, a hammer and some ingenuity.
He Never uses his Parking-Brake.
Now, he Used it once, and it's STUCK!
He Drove home, and couldn't drive over 45 MPH.
He has Drum-Brakes in the Back, and those are the Brakes that are Stuck!! (Parking-Brakes are the Back Brakes)
I know it's nothing in the Front, because the Front-Wheels are Easy to Spin. The Back ones are Hard, and make a Creaking noise when moved.
Is this a Simple Fix, by Removing the Tire/Wheel and Drum-Cover?!?
Is it just a simple Rusted-part that needs Oiled %26amp; Greased, to Move?!?
I have 4-Wheel Discs on my Own Car, so I've never had this Happen to me Personally.
I pull My E-Brake every time I change my Motor Oil.
This guy NEVER uses his!
Let me Know what needs done. I mean, it's Got to be Simple to take Care of. I Replace Disc-Brakes for people on the Side. Drums are abit unknown to me.A Co-Worker at Work has a Stuck Parking-Brake.. How does he Fix it?!?
The cable that operates the drum parking brakes might be stuck somewhere( check if it moves freely under the car, by pulling on it, also check the inside through where tha brake cable goes)
Also check the cable and mechanism for the releasing of the parking brake
Good Luck
Let me know if this workedA Co-Worker at Work has a Stuck Parking-Brake.. How does he Fix it?!?
Lack of use causes them to seize. He will need wd-40, a hammer and some ingenuity.
How difficult is it to upgrade from "SE" front brakes to "ES" front brakes on a 2000 Dodge Stratus?
I have the SE model which has 14 inch wheels and discs in the front and drums in the rear. The ES modes has four wheel discs and the fronts are a bit larger. I'd like to change out my front discs to the ones used on the ES model. Is this feesible? If so, how difficult is it? What is involved? Do I need to change the master cylinder?How difficult is it to upgrade from %26quot;SE%26quot; front brakes to %26quot;ES%26quot; front brakes on a 2000 Dodge Stratus?
you would need new proportioning valves, modify your rear brake lines, you would need hoses, calipers, rear disc brake adapter, obviously rotors, pads just for the rear. i think in the front you would just have to replace calipers and rotors. it would be very expensive to do this with new parts. if you really want to do it you should buy junkyard parts (not calipers or hoses) and save a few hundred dollars.How difficult is it to upgrade from %26quot;SE%26quot; front brakes to %26quot;ES%26quot; front brakes on a 2000 Dodge Stratus?
in order to do that you would need to find a car in a junk yard to get most of the parts from,you have to basically change everything on the car to do this,even the emergency brake cables,everything,and you will probably wind up buying new rotors and calipers for it ,so id think about that one,it can get pretty expensive changing everything,all the abs unit even has to be changed,its not hardly worth the effort to do this,but it can be done,good luck on it.cheapest web hosting buy web hosting
you would need new proportioning valves, modify your rear brake lines, you would need hoses, calipers, rear disc brake adapter, obviously rotors, pads just for the rear. i think in the front you would just have to replace calipers and rotors. it would be very expensive to do this with new parts. if you really want to do it you should buy junkyard parts (not calipers or hoses) and save a few hundred dollars.How difficult is it to upgrade from %26quot;SE%26quot; front brakes to %26quot;ES%26quot; front brakes on a 2000 Dodge Stratus?
in order to do that you would need to find a car in a junk yard to get most of the parts from,you have to basically change everything on the car to do this,even the emergency brake cables,everything,and you will probably wind up buying new rotors and calipers for it ,so id think about that one,it can get pretty expensive changing everything,all the abs unit even has to be changed,its not hardly worth the effort to do this,but it can be done,good luck on it.
How badly is my car damaged?
I need to change my brakes soon. Im worried about the condition of my from drum discs though.
The ones on the back are smooth. The ones on the front are also smooth but they are wavy (bumpy). How bad is that?
He said I was suppose to be hearing scraping noises when braking. I took the car out today to purposely try to see if I would hear scraping.
Theres a slight scraping that happens after I let up off the brake. The thing is I also hear that noise when I hit a bump.
Its very faint.
Got any Suggestion?How badly is my car damaged?
Your brakes need to be serviced, but your not in too bad a shape. Have the drums and/or disc turned, and if they are out of spec replace them (thet will fix the wave). But dont let it go too long, because it sounds like your pads are nearing the end, and if they get to metal and metal you will just be destroying the parts, which will require everything to be replaced (and have a definate impact on your braking abililty).How badly is my car damaged?
get the rotors resurfaced..duno how much they charge there but here its like 10 bux for each one..but if theyre really warped ur just gonna have to get new ones...gonna be liek 30-40 bux each..+installation..with new rotors..shouldnt cost more than 150 installedHow badly is my car damaged?
I can't see them, but it sounds like time for rotors to be replaced or at the minimum, turned!How badly is my car damaged?
Im sure the brake shop can get them resurfaced for you, but if its bad enough you might just have to replace them, it won't be that much so dont worry. To get my rotors replaced on my Honda it is around $120-$200 for all 4 wheels depending on the kind of rotors i needed. not that bad, it happens eventually anyways.How badly is my car damaged?
Hi novatrek Sounds like you will definitely need brakes soon!If you can feel and bumps or waves they will have to be machined or replaced.The rotors have gotten real cheap for most cars recently so it shouldn't be a huge difference.Are you going to do them your self? HAVE A GREAT DAY!How badly is my car damaged?
Rotors can be remachined for around $10-15 each but it is usually not recommended. They are thick to help them transfer heat from braking. If you have them machined thinner than they can't get rid of as much heat and can warp a lot easier and cause a shudder in the brake pedal.
New rotors can be anywhere from $12-100 each. Go to www.autozone.com or the website of a local parts store and look them up. If the rotors have the wheel bearings in them you'll need to regrease them and replace the wheel seals as well. Many just slip onto a sealed hub though.
You only hear scraping if the pads are worn extremely. Sometimes the metal tab breaks off so you should visually check the thickness of the pads anyway. Often the insides wear faster...anything less than 1/8%26quot; thick should be replaced. A set (for both wheels) of new pads can cost from $15-120. I usually buy the middle range semi metallic ones or ceramics. The ceramics don't have as much dust and are quieter. I'd expect them to be $35-65 for a set.
Your uncle isn't that far off. If you took your car to a shop like Midas they would double all of those prices and charge labor too. A brake job from them is often $300-500 by the time they are done with you.
My wife's coworker recently took her GTP to Midas. They quoted her $900 to change the fuel filter, replace a tie rod end and alignment, and replace the front brakes. They put a fuel filter on it but it didn't do anything...the pump was bad so they told her $500 to fix it. We paid them $75 for the diagnosis and filter change and then drove it to Autozone. I put two new tie rod ends on it, new rotors and brake pads, new fuel pump, and fixed a leaking hose. I charged them $175 for the labor and everying (including an alignment at Sears) was under $700.
The ones on the back are smooth. The ones on the front are also smooth but they are wavy (bumpy). How bad is that?
He said I was suppose to be hearing scraping noises when braking. I took the car out today to purposely try to see if I would hear scraping.
Theres a slight scraping that happens after I let up off the brake. The thing is I also hear that noise when I hit a bump.
Its very faint.
Got any Suggestion?How badly is my car damaged?
Your brakes need to be serviced, but your not in too bad a shape. Have the drums and/or disc turned, and if they are out of spec replace them (thet will fix the wave). But dont let it go too long, because it sounds like your pads are nearing the end, and if they get to metal and metal you will just be destroying the parts, which will require everything to be replaced (and have a definate impact on your braking abililty).How badly is my car damaged?
get the rotors resurfaced..duno how much they charge there but here its like 10 bux for each one..but if theyre really warped ur just gonna have to get new ones...gonna be liek 30-40 bux each..+installation..with new rotors..shouldnt cost more than 150 installedHow badly is my car damaged?
I can't see them, but it sounds like time for rotors to be replaced or at the minimum, turned!How badly is my car damaged?
Im sure the brake shop can get them resurfaced for you, but if its bad enough you might just have to replace them, it won't be that much so dont worry. To get my rotors replaced on my Honda it is around $120-$200 for all 4 wheels depending on the kind of rotors i needed. not that bad, it happens eventually anyways.How badly is my car damaged?
Hi novatrek Sounds like you will definitely need brakes soon!If you can feel and bumps or waves they will have to be machined or replaced.The rotors have gotten real cheap for most cars recently so it shouldn't be a huge difference.Are you going to do them your self? HAVE A GREAT DAY!How badly is my car damaged?
Rotors can be remachined for around $10-15 each but it is usually not recommended. They are thick to help them transfer heat from braking. If you have them machined thinner than they can't get rid of as much heat and can warp a lot easier and cause a shudder in the brake pedal.
New rotors can be anywhere from $12-100 each. Go to www.autozone.com or the website of a local parts store and look them up. If the rotors have the wheel bearings in them you'll need to regrease them and replace the wheel seals as well. Many just slip onto a sealed hub though.
You only hear scraping if the pads are worn extremely. Sometimes the metal tab breaks off so you should visually check the thickness of the pads anyway. Often the insides wear faster...anything less than 1/8%26quot; thick should be replaced. A set (for both wheels) of new pads can cost from $15-120. I usually buy the middle range semi metallic ones or ceramics. The ceramics don't have as much dust and are quieter. I'd expect them to be $35-65 for a set.
Your uncle isn't that far off. If you took your car to a shop like Midas they would double all of those prices and charge labor too. A brake job from them is often $300-500 by the time they are done with you.
My wife's coworker recently took her GTP to Midas. They quoted her $900 to change the fuel filter, replace a tie rod end and alignment, and replace the front brakes. They put a fuel filter on it but it didn't do anything...the pump was bad so they told her $500 to fix it. We paid them $75 for the diagnosis and filter change and then drove it to Autozone. I put two new tie rod ends on it, new rotors and brake pads, new fuel pump, and fixed a leaking hose. I charged them $175 for the labor and everying (including an alignment at Sears) was under $700.
SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
I NEED TO CHANGE A REAR WHEEL BEARING ON MY IGNIS 1.3 2WD 04 REG I CAN TAKE THE WHEEL AND LARGE NUT OFF BUT THE DRUM IS BEING HELD ON BY THE BRAKES HOW DO I RELEASE THESE (THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF)SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
back off adjuster til its free or pry it and hit with hammer some have screws to push off hub only a few ways of doing it most need a hammer and to pry many cant get into adjust unless you knock out adjusting plug on back brake housingSUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
pull harder.SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
I don't think that the brakes would be holding the drum on.
Many times the drum is simply held there because of rust, and the fact that it has been there for a long time. Take a rubber hammer or a hammer and a shoe, and try to hit the drum to knock it loose.
http://mibearings.com - new wheel bearings
Good Luck!
back off adjuster til its free or pry it and hit with hammer some have screws to push off hub only a few ways of doing it most need a hammer and to pry many cant get into adjust unless you knock out adjusting plug on back brake housingSUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
pull harder.SUZUKI IGNIS REAR BRAKE DRUM?
I don't think that the brakes would be holding the drum on.
Many times the drum is simply held there because of rust, and the fact that it has been there for a long time. Take a rubber hammer or a hammer and a shoe, and try to hit the drum to knock it loose.
http://mibearings.com - new wheel bearings
Good Luck!
1972 chevy truck k20 brakes and exhaust.?
i have a 1972 chevy truck k20. with power disc/drum brakes. disc front drum back. someone cut my rear brake lines and put water in my brake resevoir. now theres air in all my lines and stuff. how can i get all the air out. i plugged the back brake line and am now bleeding them from the rear. is there any possibilty to getting all the air out or what. how can i go about doing this the best way. and also is it true what i hear about a sbc engine needing backpressure. then how can hot rods and or rat rods run straight headers. is there anything i can do to my carburetor to gain more hp when i run straight header. like change the jetting or something. please all your information is greatly appreciated and needed. engine is a 02 chevy crate engine with a cam and edelbrock 650 cfm carb and edelbrock performer intake manifold. hei ignition by ac delco. and champion spark plugs. and serpentine belt kit. 4 core radiator. o and the truck has no fan and runs 160 degrees all the time.1972 chevy truck k20 brakes and exhaust.?
I hate to say this but you should have it towed somewhere with a pressure bleeder. I say this for 2 reasons. Reason 1 these are your brakes were talking about its the only way to stop your truck so I believe that since you have never done it before you should have a professional do it. And reason 2 every good tech knows that brake fluid absorbs water so if someone put it in your brake system then that's why you should get it pressure bled so they can flush out all the water. Make sure you tell them that there is water in the system and that it needs flushed extra good. This may not be what you wanna hear but its a professionals opinion.
I hate to say this but you should have it towed somewhere with a pressure bleeder. I say this for 2 reasons. Reason 1 these are your brakes were talking about its the only way to stop your truck so I believe that since you have never done it before you should have a professional do it. And reason 2 every good tech knows that brake fluid absorbs water so if someone put it in your brake system then that's why you should get it pressure bled so they can flush out all the water. Make sure you tell them that there is water in the system and that it needs flushed extra good. This may not be what you wanna hear but its a professionals opinion.
How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
Hi, ive messed up. ive changed the wheel cylinder and shoes on the rear of my Renault 5 (1996). I did the nearside first, it was alittle tight getting the drum back on so i knocked it home with a hammer and went about doing the offside.
as i was putting the drum back on the offside, I backed off the adjuster and it occured to me that was why the nearside was tight to get on.
anyway, I tried putting the wheels back on, but the nearside rear wont turn as i drive. Now I cant get he damn Drum off to back off the adjuster.
Ive just spent an entire day trying to get it off but it just wont budge.
we're due to go on holiday in this car in approx 36 hours!
What on earth am i going to do?
How do i get the drum off? the handbrake is backed off, theres no pressure in the cylinder as ive disconnected the hose. It must be the adjuster pushing the shoes into the drum. Ive tried hammers, levers etc, but it just will not come off
Please, If you have any idea, help me.
Thank you in advanceHow do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
oh, bad luck. right, whats happening is the retaining clips (which pull the shoes back, parrallel to the brake drum face) arent.
so, when you try to remove the drum, the shoes are jamming against the drum face. theres only two ways to remove this, 1 using levers on opposite sides of the drum, insert and lever forwards, and get you mate to bash the drum with a rubber or hide mallet whilst its under pressure.
2. on some renaults theres a keyhole window behnd the backplate, you can insert a small flat bladed screwdriver and rotate teh adjusters so its in the off position... (down is off i think)
3 find a skip, cut along the A frame, and th B post, then itll fit into the skip and you wot have to worry about it anymore...
seriously, phone renault and ask to speak to a mechanic. but ive had to do this many times, on many different cars, and as has already been suggested, its bloody hard work, and its almost always scraps the wheel drum.
this is what happens when unqualified folk start playing around trying to save a few quid... so how much is this going to cost to put right? and im sorry chap, but who are you trying to kill, yourself or some innocent guy on the other carriageway?
lets put it like this, brakes systems on cars are simple, they have to be, but, its just as easy to screw up, as it is to get it right. and you only get one chance to get it wrong... then it kills you.
so, dont think of saving pennies, think about the life you save, it may be yours... phone quickfit, or some other service and pay the bill.How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
have you tried heat around the adjuster that might workHow do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
You'll just have to keep hitting it until it releases, theres not much else you can doHow do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
You could try what this guy did - if you don't have access to the Haynes Manual which should show you how to get to the adjuster.....???How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
no nice way of doing this, either borrow a slide hammer, or try putting the road wheel on with 2 bolts try waggling it again but failing that get a bolster chisel in from behind the drum (i know there is not much room) and batter it off.
be prepared for a new spring kit at the very least.
as i was putting the drum back on the offside, I backed off the adjuster and it occured to me that was why the nearside was tight to get on.
anyway, I tried putting the wheels back on, but the nearside rear wont turn as i drive. Now I cant get he damn Drum off to back off the adjuster.
Ive just spent an entire day trying to get it off but it just wont budge.
we're due to go on holiday in this car in approx 36 hours!
What on earth am i going to do?
How do i get the drum off? the handbrake is backed off, theres no pressure in the cylinder as ive disconnected the hose. It must be the adjuster pushing the shoes into the drum. Ive tried hammers, levers etc, but it just will not come off
Please, If you have any idea, help me.
Thank you in advanceHow do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
oh, bad luck. right, whats happening is the retaining clips (which pull the shoes back, parrallel to the brake drum face) arent.
so, when you try to remove the drum, the shoes are jamming against the drum face. theres only two ways to remove this, 1 using levers on opposite sides of the drum, insert and lever forwards, and get you mate to bash the drum with a rubber or hide mallet whilst its under pressure.
2. on some renaults theres a keyhole window behnd the backplate, you can insert a small flat bladed screwdriver and rotate teh adjusters so its in the off position... (down is off i think)
3 find a skip, cut along the A frame, and th B post, then itll fit into the skip and you wot have to worry about it anymore...
seriously, phone renault and ask to speak to a mechanic. but ive had to do this many times, on many different cars, and as has already been suggested, its bloody hard work, and its almost always scraps the wheel drum.
this is what happens when unqualified folk start playing around trying to save a few quid... so how much is this going to cost to put right? and im sorry chap, but who are you trying to kill, yourself or some innocent guy on the other carriageway?
lets put it like this, brakes systems on cars are simple, they have to be, but, its just as easy to screw up, as it is to get it right. and you only get one chance to get it wrong... then it kills you.
so, dont think of saving pennies, think about the life you save, it may be yours... phone quickfit, or some other service and pay the bill.How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
have you tried heat around the adjuster that might workHow do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
You'll just have to keep hitting it until it releases, theres not much else you can doHow do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
You could try what this guy did - if you don't have access to the Haynes Manual which should show you how to get to the adjuster.....???How do i release a Renault 5 rear brake drum?
no nice way of doing this, either borrow a slide hammer, or try putting the road wheel on with 2 bolts try waggling it again but failing that get a bolster chisel in from behind the drum (i know there is not much room) and batter it off.
be prepared for a new spring kit at the very least.
My emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
The car in question is a 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R. About a week or so ago my rear left tire (or at least that is what it sounds like to me, but I guess it might be both back tires, not sure) started making a rubbing noise, like something was dragging on the wheel/drum somewhere. I of course assumed at first that it was the brake sensor telling me that I need to change my brakes (not sure if they are on the back brakes but it doesn't really matter). I then realized that that probably wasn't the case. The noise made no change at all, didn't stop or start or get louder or quieter, when I hit the brakes. Then all of the sudden one day, maybe a week ago, when I started my car, the e-brake light on the instrument panel was illuminated, but the e-brake lever was clearly not pulled. I tried pulling the lever and releasing it a couple times to see if it was stuck (which would be weird in it self, because I haven't pulled or used the e-brake for any reason in over a month) but no change. Now it definitely seems to be dragging the brake. When I am going 10 MPH or less I can feel it slowing the car down, any faster, and the sound subsides and it doesn't seem to affect it. A week ago, when it snowed a ton, I was driving through thick slush and seemed to be handling really bad, spinning out super easy. I opened my door and looked back while moving to see that the back left tire was just dragging in the slush, not even spinning, unless I got going faster (the other wheel could be doing this too, but I can see it while moving, and now the slush is gone. The noise seems to get worse then better then worse again. Is the cable broken? Stretched? Loose? The brake it self stuck? I would like to fix this myself, to save money, but I don't even know what to look for, really. I've never had to deal with any e-brake problems before. Any info on the possible problem and/or how to fix it would be GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks!!My emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
Mr knowitall seems to have given a good answer to some one elses question. I think you have correctly diagnosed a sticking rear brake by observing it not turning in slush. The next step is to jack up the rear of the car and see if either or both rear wheels spin freely by hand without the e brake on. Assuming you verify that one or both are not spinning freely, Be sure you have a safety jack stand in place, remove the wheel and the brake drum. If you don't know how to do that, you probably also won't be able to proceed with the next step which is examining the brakes to find out if they are rusted in place or the e brake cable is holding them on. Given your apparent lack of experience, a better idea might be to take it to a muffler brake shop for one of their free brake check ups and have them tell you what is wrong and what they would charge you to fix it. And you do need to fix it, as you are wasting lots of gas and some hot day when you are driving at highway speeds the brakes will heat up enough to start on fire likely taking your car with them. Good luck.My emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
Replace your rear brakes.
Oh, check your master cylinder, I'll bet it's low on fluid.
NEVER ADD BRAKE FLUID!!
The brake master cylinder is designed to hold just the right amount of brake fluid for your brake system.
There are two things to note.
1) As the brake pads wear out, the calipers piston has to move farther out to press on the brake pads. As the piston moves farther out, the area behind the piston becomes filled with more fluid from the master cylinder, and the level of fluid in the master cylinder goes down.
When the fluid level in the master cylinder gets too low, a light should come on indicating that your brake fluid is low.
That does NOT mean you need to add brake fluid. It means your brake pads are VERY close to being worn out.
2) If you add brake fluid today, and have your brakes done tomorrow, when the mechanic compresses the caliper piston ALL the excess brake fluid is going to spill out of the master cylinder all over the engine compartment and make a huge mess. Not to mention ruining your car.
Just a note: Brake fluid does not evaporate. So, unless you have a leak, NEVER add brake fluid.
Have your brakes serviced.My emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
Jack the car up and pull the wheel. You should see the problem immediately. The hub could be ruined if the wheel is not turning. The e-brake could of come out of adjustment and is now hung up (past the point of no return). My chevy started to give me problems because the e-brake was out of adjustment.My emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
It sounds like the parking brake is not releasing completely. This could be as a result of poor and/or lack of maintenance. Even though the hydraulic part of the braking system maybe working properly, the e-brake should be diagnose and fixed the right way.
My opinion is that the brake system is the most important system on any car. No matter how fast, loud, good paint job and all the many of like about cars, if it won't stop, the safety of the driver of such car, their passenger's other drivers and pedestrians will be compromised.
Have a professional inspected since it doesn't sound like this car was Winter-ready.
This may help you learn about this issue as well:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts
Best wishes to you.
JMMy emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
Quit writing stories about your car and take it in for the brake job it probably needed 2,000 miles ago. Now the pistons are sticking out of the calipers so far they are seized and you have metal to metal rubbing. The brake light is on because the brake fluid is so low from the caliper pistons being extended.leave a e mail address Is it normal to hump blankets
Mr knowitall seems to have given a good answer to some one elses question. I think you have correctly diagnosed a sticking rear brake by observing it not turning in slush. The next step is to jack up the rear of the car and see if either or both rear wheels spin freely by hand without the e brake on. Assuming you verify that one or both are not spinning freely, Be sure you have a safety jack stand in place, remove the wheel and the brake drum. If you don't know how to do that, you probably also won't be able to proceed with the next step which is examining the brakes to find out if they are rusted in place or the e brake cable is holding them on. Given your apparent lack of experience, a better idea might be to take it to a muffler brake shop for one of their free brake check ups and have them tell you what is wrong and what they would charge you to fix it. And you do need to fix it, as you are wasting lots of gas and some hot day when you are driving at highway speeds the brakes will heat up enough to start on fire likely taking your car with them. Good luck.My emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
Replace your rear brakes.
Oh, check your master cylinder, I'll bet it's low on fluid.
NEVER ADD BRAKE FLUID!!
The brake master cylinder is designed to hold just the right amount of brake fluid for your brake system.
There are two things to note.
1) As the brake pads wear out, the calipers piston has to move farther out to press on the brake pads. As the piston moves farther out, the area behind the piston becomes filled with more fluid from the master cylinder, and the level of fluid in the master cylinder goes down.
When the fluid level in the master cylinder gets too low, a light should come on indicating that your brake fluid is low.
That does NOT mean you need to add brake fluid. It means your brake pads are VERY close to being worn out.
2) If you add brake fluid today, and have your brakes done tomorrow, when the mechanic compresses the caliper piston ALL the excess brake fluid is going to spill out of the master cylinder all over the engine compartment and make a huge mess. Not to mention ruining your car.
Just a note: Brake fluid does not evaporate. So, unless you have a leak, NEVER add brake fluid.
Have your brakes serviced.My emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
Jack the car up and pull the wheel. You should see the problem immediately. The hub could be ruined if the wheel is not turning. The e-brake could of come out of adjustment and is now hung up (past the point of no return). My chevy started to give me problems because the e-brake was out of adjustment.My emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
It sounds like the parking brake is not releasing completely. This could be as a result of poor and/or lack of maintenance. Even though the hydraulic part of the braking system maybe working properly, the e-brake should be diagnose and fixed the right way.
My opinion is that the brake system is the most important system on any car. No matter how fast, loud, good paint job and all the many of like about cars, if it won't stop, the safety of the driver of such car, their passenger's other drivers and pedestrians will be compromised.
Have a professional inspected since it doesn't sound like this car was Winter-ready.
This may help you learn about this issue as well:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts
Best wishes to you.
JMMy emergency brake is acting up, what could be the problem?
Quit writing stories about your car and take it in for the brake job it probably needed 2,000 miles ago. Now the pistons are sticking out of the calipers so far they are seized and you have metal to metal rubbing. The brake light is on because the brake fluid is so low from the caliper pistons being extended.
Did i get ripped off?
So I just got the brake drums and brake shoes on my 1998 honda crv changed (in Montreal, Canada). It is a LX model 4wd. What I don't get is how come each brake drum costs $164.71. They changed both drums in the back so the total drum costs was 329.42, plus the costs of the brake shoes, labour, taxes and some other fancy stuff, bringing the total cost to 659.89 cdn. Yes, rear brakes only! Now, I don't know a whole lot about car parts and their costs - but that sounds like alot to me. So car connaisseurs - did I get ripped off (by Honda)?Did i get ripped off?
Dealer prices are higher than those charged by independent shops. The Honda factory parts are more expensive than comparable aftermarket parts.
I can buy the brake drums (retail) for about $43 USD each from an aftermarket parts store. A shop would charge more, but the drums would be about $60 each.
You paid more because you took the car to the dealer.Did i get ripped off?
Regardless of the model car a drum brake is a drum brake. They usually don't need changing unless you damaged them in some way. One way is to drive with worn out brake pads this would dig deep grooves into the otherwise smoother inner surface of the drum. If you damaged the drums to the point where they could not be repaired but had to be replaced you probably paid on average what that job is worth considering the cost of auto repairs. If they replaced good brake drums to hike the price then I would say you were ripped off. If your in doubt about the old drums ask them if they are still around, and look at them yourself the inside should be smooth.Did i get ripped off?
Yes,you got ripped.Go to a local parts store and have them give you a printed price of the items.The shop will use the retail figure,not the parts store price to you,but these drums are around $50 at most.Then take it to a lawyer.Did i get ripped off?
parts for Hondas are expensive. I'd say (without knowing the exchange rate) that $660-canadian is just about right but I don't know what %26quot;other fancy stuff%26quot; is. sometimes %26quot;fancy stuff%26quot; may be necessary for the repair.Did i get ripped off?
Don't blame honda...dealerships aren't owned by corporate (usually). It's really you're fault for taking an old vehicle to the dealership to get work done. Any grease monkey can install brakes in just about any car. But yeah...you got hosed for a drum brake job.Did i get ripped off?
Yes, you did. Here in the states you can buy the drums for $42.99 at autozone. and the shoes for $14.99, Even if you add in a couple hours labor at $75.00 per hour that ends up being less than three hundred dollarsDid i get ripped off?
you should have shopped around for different quotes. The shop usually will add $$$ onto the parts even though they purchase at wholesale. Next time get several quotes. You could have probably saved $200 if you shopped around.Did i get ripped off?
Never get your car worked on at a dealership unless it's still under warranty,it would cost 1/2 that at a repair shop.That is a LOT of $$$ for 2 brake drums.Did i get ripped off?
isnt that like $4 us LOL just kidding...no it sounds like you got hosed.
Dealer prices are higher than those charged by independent shops. The Honda factory parts are more expensive than comparable aftermarket parts.
I can buy the brake drums (retail) for about $43 USD each from an aftermarket parts store. A shop would charge more, but the drums would be about $60 each.
You paid more because you took the car to the dealer.Did i get ripped off?
Regardless of the model car a drum brake is a drum brake. They usually don't need changing unless you damaged them in some way. One way is to drive with worn out brake pads this would dig deep grooves into the otherwise smoother inner surface of the drum. If you damaged the drums to the point where they could not be repaired but had to be replaced you probably paid on average what that job is worth considering the cost of auto repairs. If they replaced good brake drums to hike the price then I would say you were ripped off. If your in doubt about the old drums ask them if they are still around, and look at them yourself the inside should be smooth.Did i get ripped off?
Yes,you got ripped.Go to a local parts store and have them give you a printed price of the items.The shop will use the retail figure,not the parts store price to you,but these drums are around $50 at most.Then take it to a lawyer.Did i get ripped off?
parts for Hondas are expensive. I'd say (without knowing the exchange rate) that $660-canadian is just about right but I don't know what %26quot;other fancy stuff%26quot; is. sometimes %26quot;fancy stuff%26quot; may be necessary for the repair.Did i get ripped off?
Don't blame honda...dealerships aren't owned by corporate (usually). It's really you're fault for taking an old vehicle to the dealership to get work done. Any grease monkey can install brakes in just about any car. But yeah...you got hosed for a drum brake job.Did i get ripped off?
Yes, you did. Here in the states you can buy the drums for $42.99 at autozone. and the shoes for $14.99, Even if you add in a couple hours labor at $75.00 per hour that ends up being less than three hundred dollarsDid i get ripped off?
you should have shopped around for different quotes. The shop usually will add $$$ onto the parts even though they purchase at wholesale. Next time get several quotes. You could have probably saved $200 if you shopped around.Did i get ripped off?
Never get your car worked on at a dealership unless it's still under warranty,it would cost 1/2 that at a repair shop.That is a LOT of $$$ for 2 brake drums.Did i get ripped off?
isnt that like $4 us LOL just kidding...no it sounds like you got hosed.
Drum brake question?
How do i get the drums off when when the little screw holes are rusted out? i believe previous owners never changed the shoes or drums so the drums are pretty rusted, any ideas on how to get it off?Drum brake question?
spray some penetrating oil where the drum meets the axle,clean up the rust on the axle-sand paper/file/wire brush- parking brake off-using two screw drivers,slot near bottom center drum, use one screw driver to release self adjuster pawl,use second screw driver to back off star wheel adjuster retracting brake shoes-drum should come off,might require some careful taps with a hammer to get past rust on axleDrum brake question?
you maight need an impact screwdriver to unfasten screws, or a really good hammer, you can even use a centre punch to tap them round if the slots have worn away,
make sure handbrake cable is slackened and let loose with hammer, dont be afraid to use,it, its standard proceedure !Drum brake question?
Not Sure What Screw Holes You Are Talking About Unless You Mean The Ones In The Drum , But as A Rule They Have To Be Beaten On With A Hammer Until They Start To Pull Off, If You Are Not Sure Take Them To A Shop Or Find A Friend Who Knows How To Do It, They Can Be Easy Or Very-Very Hard To Get OffDrum brake question?
First just bang it from behind W/ a rubber mallet, the br. shoes are whats holding it, make sure the E-Brake is off,if that wont work then try to scrape off the rust around the threaded holes, and pour br fluid over the whole drum around the lug studs then let it soak, start a bolt in into the holes, ID remember what size they are tho.then just tighten one on each side and it should pop right off,, and change and flush all the br. fluid it prob. looks like molasses,,right?Drum brake question?
With rear drum brakes, as a rule, the drums come straight off when the wheels are removed; they should not be separated from the hubs. If the brake shoes have worn down their inner surfaces a little, they will hang up on the shoes. Try releasing hydraulic pressure a little by releasing a bit of fluid with the bleed valves behind the wheels. Then grasp opposite sides of the drums and pull with a rocking motion.Drum brake question?
99% of the time to get a rusty drum off you have to hit it with a hammer. but when you hit it you absolutely MUST NOT hit the fins. these are for heat transfer among other things. you have to hit the little flat area just above these. this will usually knock it loose.
spray some penetrating oil where the drum meets the axle,clean up the rust on the axle-sand paper/file/wire brush- parking brake off-using two screw drivers,slot near bottom center drum, use one screw driver to release self adjuster pawl,use second screw driver to back off star wheel adjuster retracting brake shoes-drum should come off,might require some careful taps with a hammer to get past rust on axleDrum brake question?
you maight need an impact screwdriver to unfasten screws, or a really good hammer, you can even use a centre punch to tap them round if the slots have worn away,
make sure handbrake cable is slackened and let loose with hammer, dont be afraid to use,it, its standard proceedure !Drum brake question?
Not Sure What Screw Holes You Are Talking About Unless You Mean The Ones In The Drum , But as A Rule They Have To Be Beaten On With A Hammer Until They Start To Pull Off, If You Are Not Sure Take Them To A Shop Or Find A Friend Who Knows How To Do It, They Can Be Easy Or Very-Very Hard To Get OffDrum brake question?
First just bang it from behind W/ a rubber mallet, the br. shoes are whats holding it, make sure the E-Brake is off,if that wont work then try to scrape off the rust around the threaded holes, and pour br fluid over the whole drum around the lug studs then let it soak, start a bolt in into the holes, ID remember what size they are tho.then just tighten one on each side and it should pop right off,, and change and flush all the br. fluid it prob. looks like molasses,,right?Drum brake question?
With rear drum brakes, as a rule, the drums come straight off when the wheels are removed; they should not be separated from the hubs. If the brake shoes have worn down their inner surfaces a little, they will hang up on the shoes. Try releasing hydraulic pressure a little by releasing a bit of fluid with the bleed valves behind the wheels. Then grasp opposite sides of the drums and pull with a rocking motion.Drum brake question?
99% of the time to get a rusty drum off you have to hit it with a hammer. but when you hit it you absolutely MUST NOT hit the fins. these are for heat transfer among other things. you have to hit the little flat area just above these. this will usually knock it loose.
How expensive would it be to replace ball joints?
in my 91 park avenue? I was told by a midas machanic that my left tire, that the ball joints are going bad (hence my car sways side to side when driving) but i was curious as to what it would cost me? and is it an easy enough fix where a %26quot;non mechanic%26quot; like my self can fix? ( i've changed my own brakes %26quot;rotors and drum brakes%26quot; aswell as fixed other problems i've had w/ the engine....this is my second car and I'd be more than happy w/ having the mechanical lesson, but it's almost october and it's getting pretty cold in michingan. thanks yaHow expensive would it be to replace ball joints?
Get yourself a book first of all, and see what it looks like to replace them.You should have a book for it anyhow.
I mark where the old ball joints are with a scribe or white out before unbolting them, and put the new ones in the same place, then go get aligned.
Not too expensive for ball joints, probably about $40 a side, but you should really check alignment afterwards.Minor/intermediate job.
Get yourself a book first of all, and see what it looks like to replace them.You should have a book for it anyhow.
I mark where the old ball joints are with a scribe or white out before unbolting them, and put the new ones in the same place, then go get aligned.
Not too expensive for ball joints, probably about $40 a side, but you should really check alignment afterwards.Minor/intermediate job.
How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
There is usually a lip that you can use to pry off the dust cap when you go to change the rear brakes but there isn't one on the Focus. Is there a trick to it?How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
DO NOT attempt to remove the drum by hitting it with a hammer!!! It is not a %26quot;knock off%26quot; style like they are on most other vehicles. The drum on this particular car is one piece with the rear wheel bearing. The dust cap is NOT reusable once removed. You are correct in that there is no way to remove it, without damaging it. For this reason, those dust caps are readily available at any Ford dealer parts departments. On this particular car, there are TWO ways to remove the drum. One is to remove the dust cap you mentioned, and then the 30mm axle nut behind it. Or, you can remove the drum and spindle as an assembly by removing the four 13mm bolts on the BACK side of the backing plate. Doing it this way requires removing the ABS wheel speed sensor (if equipped) either attached to the spindle with the connector disconnected just ahead of the rear wheel, or removing it from the spindle with the one 8mm bolt securing it, if it will come out easily. BTW what is the mileage on this car? It should not be needing brakes on the rear. Rear brake shoes on these particular cars usually have a long lifespan. If you do end up removing it by the first method, just remember that the 30mm axle nut has to be torqued to 174 ft.-lbs. upon reinstallation. Hope this helps.How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
You're Welcome.
try a big channel-lock pliers. grab it and wiggle it back and forth while pulling. you might have a couple marks on the cap when done, but it won't be dented and out of roundHow do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
No removal at all, when you take your tire off, you have to bang like hell to take off the drum. Thats all! Tire, then take off drum. Took me about a 1/2 hour to take one of my drums off my car, the other side just slid off.
DO NOT attempt to remove the drum by hitting it with a hammer!!! It is not a %26quot;knock off%26quot; style like they are on most other vehicles. The drum on this particular car is one piece with the rear wheel bearing. The dust cap is NOT reusable once removed. You are correct in that there is no way to remove it, without damaging it. For this reason, those dust caps are readily available at any Ford dealer parts departments. On this particular car, there are TWO ways to remove the drum. One is to remove the dust cap you mentioned, and then the 30mm axle nut behind it. Or, you can remove the drum and spindle as an assembly by removing the four 13mm bolts on the BACK side of the backing plate. Doing it this way requires removing the ABS wheel speed sensor (if equipped) either attached to the spindle with the connector disconnected just ahead of the rear wheel, or removing it from the spindle with the one 8mm bolt securing it, if it will come out easily. BTW what is the mileage on this car? It should not be needing brakes on the rear. Rear brake shoes on these particular cars usually have a long lifespan. If you do end up removing it by the first method, just remember that the 30mm axle nut has to be torqued to 174 ft.-lbs. upon reinstallation. Hope this helps.How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
You're Welcome.
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How do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?try a big channel-lock pliers. grab it and wiggle it back and forth while pulling. you might have a couple marks on the cap when done, but it won't be dented and out of roundHow do you remove the dust cap from the drum on a 2007 Ford Focus without damaging it?
No removal at all, when you take your tire off, you have to bang like hell to take off the drum. Thats all! Tire, then take off drum. Took me about a 1/2 hour to take one of my drums off my car, the other side just slid off.
Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
am helping my friend out by changing his brakes on his car. I have done alot of front and rear brakes in my life. But for the life of my i cant seem to find how to take the back brake drums off. Is there a special trick to this? I have taken the tire off and the cap in the center of the drum. There is a very large nut under were the cap was. Do i need to remove that to take them off? Or is there some other trick. Any help or info on this would be so greatly apprecaited.Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
your going to have to back the shoes off, there should be a port in back to stick either %26quot;adjustor spoon%26quot; or just a flat tip screwdriver, its a * wheel moving one way will loosen and other way will tighten
drum will slide off and the shoes and springs will be exposed, if possible take both sides off, but only work on one side at a time to so you can see how springs are routed and how it should look not how it looks good.
good luck, drums are alot more difficult than disk brakesTroubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
Make sure the parking brake is released.Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
If you have an Auto Zone store near they have a computer set up that tells all the details. It's freeshort hair cut small myspace
your going to have to back the shoes off, there should be a port in back to stick either %26quot;adjustor spoon%26quot; or just a flat tip screwdriver, its a * wheel moving one way will loosen and other way will tighten
drum will slide off and the shoes and springs will be exposed, if possible take both sides off, but only work on one side at a time to so you can see how springs are routed and how it should look not how it looks good.
good luck, drums are alot more difficult than disk brakesTroubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
Make sure the parking brake is released.Troubles with the back breaks on a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
If you have an Auto Zone store near they have a computer set up that tells all the details. It's free
SEAT Ibiza back brakes?
Can anyone direct me to a web page that will give me a step by step on how to change the rear brake shoes on a Mk 3 Ibiza.
Dont get me wrong I am competant enough to do them, I would just like a little look at what I can expect when I get the drum off and any tips from experts. Just to prepare myself a bit.
Ta for any postitive helpful repliesSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
Rear Drum Brakes:
Break loose the wheel lugs on both sides, jack up each side and support the vehicle using metal jack stands. Remove the wheels. Most rear drums simply slide on to the hub, although they may have a thin metal push nut on two of the lugs to secure the drum during assembly, if they are found simply break them off using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or a cold chisel, You do not need to replace the push nuts - they simply prevent the drum from falling off during handling during vehicle assembly. Wearing safety glasses to protect yourself from flying pieces of rust, pound liberally around the rim of the drum with a heavy hand sledge (2 or 1 Kg size) rotating the blows, do not hit the same place repeatedly, until the drum breaks loose. IF the drum is not too badly grooved, the drum will slide off with a bit of wiggling, if it refuses to come off you will have to locate the adjuster access hole in the backing plate, usually oval shaped and located at either the bottom center or upper front center of the backing plate, remove the rubber plug and turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes back off and allow the drum to be removed. In extreme cases it may be necessary to force the drum off with extreme brute force using 2 or more Large Pry Bars - if this degree of force is required be prepared to replace absolutely everything in the assembly - Adjuster mechanisms, Hold down pins springs and clips, return springs and last but certainly not least the parking brake cables. If the drums are only mildly grooved, and are similar in appearance on both sides it should not be necessary to have them turned or to replace them, if either side has deep grooves, or if the lip on the outer edge where the shoe does not contact the drum is deeper than 3/16%26quot; (2mm) then the best solution is simply to replace the drums, if new drums are installed make certain to clean the braking surface using Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative. Hopefully at least one side came apart without requiring the brute force method !!! Replace the brake assembly one side at a time closely and carefully comparing the positioning and orientation of each part with it's mate on the other side to ensure correct operation of the completed assembly. If re using the adjuster assembly, thoroughly clean it of rust and coat the threads with Anti-Seize compound and operate the threaded adjustment from end to end several times to ensure smooth operation. Also apply a dab of Anti-Seize to each of the spots where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If you are replacing the adjuster make certain that you install each adjuster on the correct side, one of them will be Left hand or Reverse threaded due to the mirror image operation of the design. When the side is assembled slide the drum over the shoes and check for excessive clearance, if there is more than 1/16%26quot; (1mm) clearance, rotate the adjuster wheel a little at a time until the drum just lightly drags on the shoes as they slide on. Repeat process for opposite side. Install wheels and snug the lugs using a crisscross or star pattern, lower the car to the ground on both sides and tighten the wheels to the proper torque using a torque wrench, again using a crisscross or star tightening pattern which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Test the brakes and verify that you have a firm pedal with the engine running before placing the car in gear! If the pedal is firm put the car in gear and let it roll a few feet and check the brakes again, if they feel normal continue with a test drive trying out the brakes at varied speeds, they should be smooth and free from any pulling from side to side.SEAT Ibiza back brakes?
the main thing alot forget is u need a grinder...on removing the drums,check the inner braking surface,there will be a lip of unworn metal that needs ground off..this aids quick and proper fitment of the drum.also adjust up the shoes by hand[dont let the ''automatic'' adjusters work as most of the time they dont]...so there just dragging the drum when its on..if when back together,you Spin the wheel,and it turns freely,without slowing down quick then you've done it wrong!...shoes must be just touching the drum,if there not there will be lots of movement on the foot brake...hope this helps a LittleSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
well you can always google it, normally brings up what your looking for, I would invest in a haynes manual for your car , i buy one for evry car i get and they cover evrything
Dont get me wrong I am competant enough to do them, I would just like a little look at what I can expect when I get the drum off and any tips from experts. Just to prepare myself a bit.
Ta for any postitive helpful repliesSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
Rear Drum Brakes:
Break loose the wheel lugs on both sides, jack up each side and support the vehicle using metal jack stands. Remove the wheels. Most rear drums simply slide on to the hub, although they may have a thin metal push nut on two of the lugs to secure the drum during assembly, if they are found simply break them off using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers or a cold chisel, You do not need to replace the push nuts - they simply prevent the drum from falling off during handling during vehicle assembly. Wearing safety glasses to protect yourself from flying pieces of rust, pound liberally around the rim of the drum with a heavy hand sledge (2 or 1 Kg size) rotating the blows, do not hit the same place repeatedly, until the drum breaks loose. IF the drum is not too badly grooved, the drum will slide off with a bit of wiggling, if it refuses to come off you will have to locate the adjuster access hole in the backing plate, usually oval shaped and located at either the bottom center or upper front center of the backing plate, remove the rubber plug and turn the adjuster wheel until the brake shoes back off and allow the drum to be removed. In extreme cases it may be necessary to force the drum off with extreme brute force using 2 or more Large Pry Bars - if this degree of force is required be prepared to replace absolutely everything in the assembly - Adjuster mechanisms, Hold down pins springs and clips, return springs and last but certainly not least the parking brake cables. If the drums are only mildly grooved, and are similar in appearance on both sides it should not be necessary to have them turned or to replace them, if either side has deep grooves, or if the lip on the outer edge where the shoe does not contact the drum is deeper than 3/16%26quot; (2mm) then the best solution is simply to replace the drums, if new drums are installed make certain to clean the braking surface using Brake Parts Cleaner to remove the oily preservative. Hopefully at least one side came apart without requiring the brute force method !!! Replace the brake assembly one side at a time closely and carefully comparing the positioning and orientation of each part with it's mate on the other side to ensure correct operation of the completed assembly. If re using the adjuster assembly, thoroughly clean it of rust and coat the threads with Anti-Seize compound and operate the threaded adjustment from end to end several times to ensure smooth operation. Also apply a dab of Anti-Seize to each of the spots where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If you are replacing the adjuster make certain that you install each adjuster on the correct side, one of them will be Left hand or Reverse threaded due to the mirror image operation of the design. When the side is assembled slide the drum over the shoes and check for excessive clearance, if there is more than 1/16%26quot; (1mm) clearance, rotate the adjuster wheel a little at a time until the drum just lightly drags on the shoes as they slide on. Repeat process for opposite side. Install wheels and snug the lugs using a crisscross or star pattern, lower the car to the ground on both sides and tighten the wheels to the proper torque using a torque wrench, again using a crisscross or star tightening pattern which prevents warping of the hub and wheel assembly. Test the brakes and verify that you have a firm pedal with the engine running before placing the car in gear! If the pedal is firm put the car in gear and let it roll a few feet and check the brakes again, if they feel normal continue with a test drive trying out the brakes at varied speeds, they should be smooth and free from any pulling from side to side.SEAT Ibiza back brakes?
the main thing alot forget is u need a grinder...on removing the drums,check the inner braking surface,there will be a lip of unworn metal that needs ground off..this aids quick and proper fitment of the drum.also adjust up the shoes by hand[dont let the ''automatic'' adjusters work as most of the time they dont]...so there just dragging the drum when its on..if when back together,you Spin the wheel,and it turns freely,without slowing down quick then you've done it wrong!...shoes must be just touching the drum,if there not there will be lots of movement on the foot brake...hope this helps a LittleSEAT Ibiza back brakes?
well you can always google it, normally brings up what your looking for, I would invest in a haynes manual for your car , i buy one for evry car i get and they cover evrything
What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
I'm a mildly competent do it yourself kind of guy and I don't mind learning how to maintain my own cars. I've successfully changed belts, brakes (disc and drum) plugs, filters, distributer caps and wires, etc. I've had varying success between my 2003 Dodge Intrepid and my wife's 1996 Infiniti G20 and 2003 Ford Taurus and it's clearly evident that come cars are FAR easier to work on than others.
Are there any cars out there that are %26quot;known%26quot; to be easy to work on? Not for accessorizing, or %26quot;souping%26quot; up, just for basic maintenance without having to go to the shop because the belts are unreachable without a lift!What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
You want easy to work on look for something before the mid 80's when computerized things starting showing up.
The newer they are the more electronics they have.What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
None...What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
1st dont buy an audi they are nice cars howver they can only be worked on in the shop and cost upwards of 2000 a year. i would reccomend a ford mustang very easy and fun to work on, and parts are EXTREMLY cheap and easy to find hope this helpsWhat kind of cars are easy to take care of?
As a general rule, Hondas are usually easier and cheaper to work on.
Are there any cars out there that are %26quot;known%26quot; to be easy to work on? Not for accessorizing, or %26quot;souping%26quot; up, just for basic maintenance without having to go to the shop because the belts are unreachable without a lift!What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
You want easy to work on look for something before the mid 80's when computerized things starting showing up.
The newer they are the more electronics they have.What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
None...What kind of cars are easy to take care of?
1st dont buy an audi they are nice cars howver they can only be worked on in the shop and cost upwards of 2000 a year. i would reccomend a ford mustang very easy and fun to work on, and parts are EXTREMLY cheap and easy to find hope this helpsWhat kind of cars are easy to take care of?
As a general rule, Hondas are usually easier and cheaper to work on.
Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
I am helping my friend out by changing his brakes on his car. I have done alot of front and rear brakes in my life. But for the life of my i cant seem to find how to take the back brake drums off. Is there a special trick to this? I have taken the tire off and the cap in the center of the drum. There is a very large nut under were the cap was. Do i need to remove that to take them off? Or is there some other trick. Any help or info on this would be so greatly apprecaited.Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum pullerBrake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some
dont go banging the drum that is just stupid, a drum is not made out of hard quality steel it is a soft cast material which gives better braking performance, if they are too hard the shoes would just slide over them rather than grip. banging cast will cause it to crack and if you crack a drum the crack opens when you brake causing low braking abillitys and can even cause the shoes to get wedged in and lock up. you need to loosen the handbrake adjuster normally found under the handbrake lever and then you need to find the self adjuster on the inside of the drums sometimes you get to it throught the hole for the wheel bolts sometimes there an extra hole in the back with a rubber gromit in {not the ones on the edges of the back plate they are for visually inspecting how much linning is left on the shoes} the thing is as the inside of the drum wears against the shoes it causes a lip to form which does not pass over the shoes once the shoes are close enough together from de adjusting them it should just fall off, failing this you need a drum pullerBrake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
No theres no trick. that large nut youre talking about is the nut to remove the wheel bearing, and that wont help. just bang the drum as hard as you can. till it pops off. im being serious, thats the only way.Brake troubles with a 1997 Hyundai Accent....any help would be greatly appreciated...?
if there is no hole in the back of the brake cover to adjust ... brakes......then.... is there any holes in the hub or a couple of screws or holes for a couple screws.. 10 or a 12 mm..... i think it will push it off by screwing them in and hit it with a big hammer a few times might help loosen it up some
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